A Boutique Retreat Stay for the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival
Every October, Ubud becomes a gathering place for writers and readers. From 21 to 25 October 2026, the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival will celebrate its twenty-third year, bringing together over 150 writers, journalists, poets, and performers for more than 100 events around town. If you’re coming for the festival, choosing the right boutique retreat in Ubud can make your time between sessions just as enjoyable as the festival itself.
Here’s a quick guide to the festival’s history, dates, venues, and passes, along with reasons to stay at Viceroy Bali during your visit.
The Festival at a Glance
Twenty-Two Years of Words in Ubud
Janet DeNeefe, a writer from Melbourne who made Ubud her home, and her husband, I Ketut Suardana, started the festival to help the community heal in the aftermath of the Bali bombings in 2002. The first festival was held in 2004 under the auspices of their foundation, Yayasan Mudra Swari Saraswati. Now in its twenty-third year, the festival has become one of Southeast Asia’s top literary events. The programme features panel discussions, book launches, long-table lunches, village walks, and late-night poetry slams. The Emerging Writers Programme also helps bring Indonesian voices to a wider audience.
Dates and Venues for 2026
This year’s theme is Samarasā, a Sanskrit idea centred on harmony between the mind, heart, and actions. The festival explores this through three main ideas: awareness, empathy, and action.
The opening gala will take place at Puri Agung Ubud, the royal palace, on Wednesday evening, 21 October. From Thursday, 22 October, to Sunday, 25 October, the main programme will run at Taman Baca, the festival’s main hub. Special events, masterclasses, and cultural workshops will also be held at restaurants, studios, and gardens around town.
Because sessions take place at different venues, be sure to check the masterclass schedule for each event’s location and start time before you go. The closing-night celebration will also run at Taman Baca on Sunday, 25 October.
Speakers and Programme
The 2026 programme features both well-known international writers and Indonesian authors. Booker Prize winner Kiran Desai will talk about her novel The Loneliness of Sonia and Sunny, and novelist Katie Kitamura will present Audition. Other guests include Malaysian author Tash Aw, Balinese author Oka Rusmini, and Indonesian essayist Goenawan Mohamad.
Sessions cover many topics, including censorship, translation, the environment, Balinese art, and historical memory. The festival also offers spoken-word performances, book launches, and conversations that connect literature with today’s world.
With over 100 events, it’s best to choose a few sessions each day that interest you most rather than trying to see everything. Be sure to book your places at masterclasses and special dinners early, as they can fill up quickly.
Festival Passes
The four-day Festival Pass provides access to the main programme at Taman Baca from Thursday, 22 October, to Sunday, 25 October, including the after-dark programme. The one-day pass covers the main programme on your chosen day. Both are available through the festival ticket page, which lists different ticket categories and prices for international visitors, Indonesian citizens, KITAS/KITAP holders, ASEAN citizens, and students.
Special events, masterclasses, and cultural workshops may require separate tickets. Some book launches are free to attend, so check the individual event listings when planning your schedule.
A Boutique Retreat in Ubud for the Festival Week
Getting to the Venues
Viceroy Bali is located in the village of Petulu, above the Valley of the Kings and overlooking the Petanu River gorge. Central Ubud and the festival venues are just 10 to 15 minutes away by car, making it easy to return to your villa between sessions or after an evening event. If you’re arriving by plane, Ngurah Rai International Airport is about 1.5 to 2 hours away by car, depending on traffic. The retreat can arrange airport transfers in its electric Denza D9, offering a comfortable and convenient start to your stay.
Villas for Early Arrivals and Late Returns
Viceroy Bali has been independently owned since 2005, just a year after the festival began. Each of its 40 private pool villas overlooks the valley, and every pool is heated for a comfortable swim, even in the early morning. Breakfast is made to order and served either in your villa or at the bale, giving you the option to enjoy a leisurely meal or spend a quiet morning reading and writing before heading to the festival.
The resort has a staff-to-guest ratio of five to one, and 37% of the team is from Petulu. These local ties foster a strong connection with the surrounding community. Viceroy Bali also holds a One MICHELIN Key award in 2025 and 2026, recognising its high standard of hospitality.
Dining and Wellness After the Last Session
You can continue festival conversations over dinner or drinks at Viceroy Bali’s restaurants and bar.
Apéritif Restaurant follows the philosophy “European Technique. Indonesian Soul.”. Its Guided by the Moon tasting menu is available in five- or seven-course formats, with vegetarian and vegan menus also available. A smart-to-formal dress code applies, and advance reservations are required. If you’re staying through the festival’s final day on Sunday, 25 October, you could round off the day with a leisurely dinner and the full seven-course menu.
Pinstripe Bar, the property’s speakeasy-style bar, opens at 4 p.m., so you can enjoy a cocktail as the sun sets over the valley. Its live jazz program and The Clairvoyant cocktail menu are inspired by Miguel Covarrubias, whose 1937 book Island of Bali explored Balinese culture. The bar is also part of the festival program, hosting poet and wine writer Anthony Tao’s Poetry Wine Workshop on Friday, 23 October, from 5 p.m. Check the festival listing for event details and ticket requirements before making plans.
CasCades Restaurant & Bar is a more relaxed dining option, serving food from 11 a.m. The menu features the Royal Balinese Rijsttafel, a selection of traditional Indonesian dishes. If you’re staying into the next week, you can catch the restaurant’s Balinese dance performance on Mondays at 7.30 p.m. Between festival sessions, Akoya Spa offers treatments that blend Balinese healing traditions with modern wellness, plus facilities like a cold plunge and sauna. Some treatments can also be arranged in your villa.
Staying Where It Matters
A festival focused on awareness, empathy, and action also offers an opportunity to reflect on how travel can benefit the places we visit. At Viceroy Bali, sustainability is part of daily operations. In June 2026, the resort earned GSTC Certification, meeting the Global Sustainable Tourism Council’s standards.
The resort uses water from an 80-metre mountain spring and treats it with reverse osmosis, which helps cut down on bottled water use. Wastewater goes through an 18-step organic treatment before returning to the Petanu River. Whenever possible, produce is sourced locally to support nearby communities and reduce transport needs.
For four days, the festival brings people together to read, share ideas, and talk about the stories shaping our world. As you plan your stay, try to find a place that’s both close to the festival and gives you space to relax between sessions. With its valley views, heated private pools, and excellent dining and wellness facilities, Viceroy Bali is a boutique retreat in Ubud where you can unwind after a busy festival day.
